Textile Term: Mercerization
Mercerization is a chemical treatment process for cotton and other cellulosic fibers that increases their luster, strength, and affinity for dye. This textile finishing process was first pioneered by the British chemist John Mercer in 1844, and involves treating the fabric with a strong alkali solution, usually sodium hydroxide (NaOH), otherwise known as caustic soda, to cotton or other cellulose fibers while it is under tension.
This causes the fibers to swell and straighten, resulting in a more even surface and increased strength. The fabric is then washed and sometimes treated with an acid to neutralize the alkali.
In addition to increasing fiber durability, mercerization also enhances fiber dye affinity, allowing for more vibrant hues and resulting in more absorbent and easy-to-maintain fabrics, as the treated fabric is less prone to shrinkage and wrinkling.
This process is suitable for a variety of cotton fabrics, including woven and knit textiles, as well as cotton yarns. Occasionally, mercerization is also employed on other cellulose fibers, such as linen or hemp.
Moreover, mercerization offers an opportunity to create distinct visual patterns within the fabric. For instance, if the material is bunched together tightly before undergoing mercerization, the compressed areas will resist the process, generating an unusual texture and appearance that is distinct from the rest of the fabric.
